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Puglia
The Bread Basket of Italy
For dolce far niente
Why
The Why, When & How to visit...
Located in the "heel" of Italy, Puglia has so much to offer. From beautiful buildings to beaches, trullo to taralli, churches and charcuterie. Women selling handmade orecchiette straight from their homes to fishermen selling seafood straight from the sea. Doors open with laundry hanging outside to dry. It's easy to see why Puglia is referred to as the more "authentic" side of Italy that still maintains a lifestyle of long ago.
When
How
The Puglia region can be reached by flying to the capital city of Bari (BRI) or Brindisi (BDS) with direct flights from Rome and other main European city airports. Bari can also be reached by a 4 hour train from Rome Termini Station.
Fall & Winter are mild with avg highs ranging from 55 to 70 degrees F. Summer months reach high 80's F on avg in July and August with nicer temperatures in the 70's and low 80's May, June, Sept, and Oct.
Where
to stay...
Bari is definitely worth staying in for a few nights, but also a great place to stay longer, especially if you prefer to stay in one place and complete day trips from there. I chose to stay 3 nights in Bari with day trips to Matera and Alberobello and 2 nights in Monopoli with a trip to neighboring Pogliano a Mare. In Bari, consider staying at iH Hotels Bari Grande Albergo delle Nazioni. The hotel is centrally located with incredible views overlooking the water. It has a rooftop pool, spa, restaurants, and airy rooms, including some with terraces here.
From Bari, Alberobello is about an hour drive SE. It is known for its unique whitewash, historic trullo homes (pictured above) that are a UNESCO World Heritage Site and available to stay in too. Perlage Suite Luxury B&B is a nice option right in the heart of Alberobello with balconies to soak in the action. Alternatively, this beautiful property of Masseria Paretano is within a 10 minute drive of Alberobello on a winery with an outdoor pool and spa and includes breakfast.
In hindsight, it would have been nice to experience more time and an evening in Matera (not part of Puglia, but included for its proximity to Bari/Puglia). There are some really cool options to stay in a cave dwelling like Sant'Angelo Luxury Resort and Pietragialla within the UNESCO World Heritage portion of the city. Alternatively, for brand new, high-end modern accommodations nearby, check out La Suite Matera Hotel & Spa or Maison Boutique Matteotti for a nice, traditional option.
In deciding between Monopoli or Poglinano a Mare, maybe try both. However, if choosing one, Monopoli had more of a town feel with more of a historic center to explore and more beaches. Whereas Poglinano a Mare seemed a bit more lively, maybe a bit more touristy too, with a large market and the famous Grotta Palazzese Restaurant and Lama Monachile beach. The two are a short 5 min train ride away, so easy to go back & forth.
In Monopoli, check out Don Ferrante - Dimore di Charme or Al Console Luxury Suite for two nice options in the historic center on the water. For a modern, airy, waterfront, boutique hotel in Polignano a Mare head to Musae al Mare. Rooms are spacious with outdoor space, some of which include a terrace and jacuzzi tub. There's also the Grotta Palazzese for a splurge stay and preferred seating at the famous restaurant.
Otsuni (known as the White City) and Lecce are other popular cities to visit further south. Lecce is on the same train line as Pogliano a Mare and Monopoli, about a 90 min train ride from Bari or an hour from Monopoli. Ostuni is more difficult to reach with public transit, but has a direct bus option from Alberobello and Locorotondo. In Ostuni, check out this chic duplex apartment in the center of town Duplex Sant Antonio in a historic stone building with modern design features here. Or feel like you're staying in an ornate Italian home at Palazzo Stunis- Dimora di Charme here.
There's a train connecting the Bari airport to the center of town that costs ~5 euros and can be purchased by tapping a card payment at the entrance. From Bari, it's easy to reach other parts of Puglia by train & bus or driving. For instance, Alberobello and Matera (not part of Puglia, but close by) are accessible on an hour bus each way. Poglinano a Mare and Monopoli are only a ~20 min train ride from Bari and 5 min train ride apart.
Aside from the bus to Matera operated privately by FlixBus, all others are operated by Trenitalia for a few euros each way. Bus tickets should be purchased in advance to secure the desired time slot. Train tickets can also be purchased in advance on the Trenitalia website, but in my experience were also typically still available for purchase at the terminal right before departure.
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What
Do
to...
1) Explore the Charming Towns - In Bari, enjoy fresh (raw) seafood at N' dèrr'a la lanze Fisherman's Market (as seen on "Stanley Tucci: Searching for Italy") and cool off with an aperitif at The Ciclatera Under the Sea. Then wander around the Old Town of Bari Vecchia, purchase handmade orecchiette sold from homes, enjoy a drink overlooking the Basilica Cathedral Metropolitian at Caffe del Borgo, and dine at Orecchietteria San Nicola.
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In Alberobello, explore the trullo homes and refresh with an aperitif at Chiance or Trilli e Puglia Wine Bar. While not part of Puglia, Matera is also only an hour drive from Bari in the Bascilicata region. It is considered one of the most outstanding and intact troglodyte settlements for its ancient cave dwellings called ‘sassi'. Matera is accessible by bus operated by FlixBus, which should be booked in advance to secure the desired time slot. Alternatively, this full-day, private tour covers Alberobello and Matera here. This small group tour, includes Alberobello, Martina Franca and Locorotondo Day Trip from Bari. Lastly, this Full Day Matera Tour with Cave Homes and Local Food Tasting provides a group tour with round-trip transportation from Bari.
In Monopoli, start the morning at Cafe Napoli. Cool off at one of the many beaches along the sea like Lido Cala Paradiso. Grab a sandwich at Gustavo, then check out the Porto Antico and enjoy the view from the Tuttoapposto Winebar. Dine at Carlo Quinto and drink at Don Ferrante. Enjoy charcuterie at Magnapuglia and cocktails at Zero Cocktail Bar.
Take the train 5 minutes to Poglinano a Mare to explore the market, experience the famous Lama Monachile beach, and have a memorable dining experience at the Grotta Palazzese Restaurant (see below). Explore Polignano a Mare on this 30-min Ape Calessino tuk-tuk tour to see the highlights. Or a different side of Polignano a Mare from the water to the caves on this 90-min boat tour with apertifs available for both private and group tours.
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If exploring the surrounding area from Bari, this small group tour from Bari explores Alberobello, Monopoli, and Polignano a Mare in one condensed day trip.
2) Experience Grotta Palazzese Restaurant - The restaurant at Grotta Palazzese is world famous for providing a truly unique and special experience of dining on the water in a grotto. Tasting menus start at 195 euros at the time of writing for 4 courses + 20 euros for a glass of wine and 10 euros for a large bottle of water, so adds up to about 250 euros per person with two glasses of wine and water. IMO, it was worth the price for the experience and food quality. Definitely intended for a special occasion whether that be a specific celebration or just celebrating vacation and life.
Advance reservations are required with a 75 euro cancellation fee, if not cancelled 48 hours in advance. I recommend making a reservation for the first seating at 6pm to have the highest likelihood of securing a front row table along the water. Dinner lasts about 2-2.5 hours. The restaurant is also open for lunch, but from what I could tell is for the same menu & prices, so would opt for dinner for that price. Women mostly wore long dresses and men a button down with slacks.
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3) Take a Food Tour & Cooking Class - Explore Bari with a local tour guide to see the main sights followed by a cooking class in a home to learn to make fresh pasta pomodoro using orecchiette pasta and try the local primitivo red wine. More information and the ability to book is available here.
Eat
Puglia is known as the bread basket of Italy, so when in Puglia eat bread, specifically focaccia. Puglia also produces the vast majority of Italy's olive oil, so soak it up while there. It is also known for these circular breadsticks called taralli. I didn't think much of them, but did really enjoy the flava bean chips, especially the spicy ones.
Orecchiette is also big in Puglia, specifically with cime di rapa (green tunips). Charcuterie is also popular, specifically with pecorino and if there's smoked mozzarella, get it! Lastly, seafood being on the sea, sold straight from fishermen in Bari at N' dèrr'a la lanze Fisherman's Market (as seen on "Stanley Tucci: Searching for Italy")
Drink
Puglian wine like Salice, Salentino, or Primitivo made from Negramaro, a red grape that is grown almost exclusively in Puglia and used to make full body, high ABV wines. Gin & Tonics, a variety of Spritzs, and Amaros are also very popular throughout Italy. *If of legal drinking age to drink responsibly
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I also discovered a number of interesting non-alcoholic beverage options on this trip, like the San Pelegrino "Cocktail", which tastes like a non-alcoholic Aperol Spritz. There are other similar Italian herbal, bitter sodas to try, including Crodino, Sanbitter, and Chinotto.
Wear
Cool Italian
Watch
Walking on Sunshine
by Dania Pasquini
& Max Giwa
Listen
"Luna Mezza Mare"
by Lou Monte
Gift
Click here for Gift ideas
Check out the Rome Guide for more Italy coverage.