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Malta
The Jewel of the Mediterranean
Strength and persistence
Why
The Why, When & How to visit...
Malta is one of the smallest and densest countries with a population of over half a million people on a little over 120 sq miles. (315 sq km). It has been inhabited since approximately 5900 BC and ruled by almost every superpower before becoming independent from Britain in 1964. It is comprised of 3 main islands: the largest namesake island of Malta, a smaller version called Gozo, and Comino in between the two, which is mostly vacant and visited for trips to the Blue Lagoon. Its vast history contributes to its architecture, food, and culture today. That combined with its nice weather with 300+ days of sunshine, rugged coastline & bays, and historic sights scattered throughout, make Malta a special destination to visit.
When
How
Malta has one airport - the Malta International Airport (MLA) located in Luqa, a 15-20 min drive from the capital city of Valletta. There are no direct flights from North America to Malta, so a connection from another European city is needed. Valletta is also accessible via a cruise like these through Celebrity.
Malta maintains pleasant temperatures year-round ranging from average highs in the 60's F Nov-April increasing to 70's in May and October and 80's June-September with water temperatures to match. It often has zero days of rain in the Summer and over 3,000 hours / 300 days of annual sunshine.
Once in Malta, there's a public bus system, Uber and taxis. Valletta's narrow streets make it prohibitive for a bus to access, so the Valletta Bus Station is located right outside the main gate to the city, which can be up to a 20 minute walk, if staying further inward (east). Given this, I opted to take an Uber from the airport to my accommodations in Valletta, which cost about 12 euros and a 15-20 min drive compared to the bus that costs 2 euros and takes 25-30 minutes, plus the walk. Valletta is fairly small and walkable, but also hilly. All of the main sights can be reached by public bus, but isn't efficient since most sights are on different bus routes.
Where
to stay...
I recommend spending 2 nights in Valletta, followed by at least 1 night in Gozo, and 1 last night in Valletta for proximity to the airport before flying out.
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In Valletta, I chose to stay at the Palazzo Ignazio. It is conveniently located within a short walk to all the sights, shops, bars & restaurants, has a mini spa, beautiful rooftop with bar overlooking the port to watch the sunset, and a nice European breakfast buffet included in the room rate. The rooms are spacious and complete with robes & slippers and a Nespresso machine for morning espresso. The staff was very kind and attentive and provided a welcome note in the room. For more information and the ability to book, click here.
For more space, Saint Paul offers contemporary apartment options with a small living room & kitchen for 2 people available here. The Phoenicia Malta is nice for a luxury resort located right outside the main gate to the city, along the fort wall, and close to the Valletta bus terminal. It has multiple F&B options, including a grand salon serving afternoon tea, spa with pink salt sauna, and extensive garden leading to the infinity pool overlooking a marina. More information and the ability to book is available here.
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In Gozo, check out the Townhouse17 for a contemporary B&B right across from the Victoria bus terminal for easy access to get around and a short walk to all Victoria has to offer. The B&B has a rooftop bar & pool, outdoor terrace, and breakfast included in the room rate. The rooms are compact, but comfortable with a small balcony for fresh air available to view and book here.
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For a cool Agrotourism option a short drive from Victoria, head to Tuta Agrotourism. This contemporary hotel has only 10 rooms across the sprawling 14-hectare farm estate, surrounded by carob & almond trees, wild herbs and olive groves, on a cliff edge of the Kercem village with awesome views of the island. It has an outdoor pool and top-notch bar & restaurant serving contemporary twists on classic Maltese dishes using local & farm grown ingredients. Rooms are spacious with high-ceilings, earthy tones, and private patios to enjoy the views & landscape. There are also opportunities to experience farm living from picking fruit to attending to the livestock. More information and the ability to book is available here.
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An alternative or additional option to staying in Valletta or on Gozo, is Lure Hotel & Spa for a newer, high-end, contemporary, adults-only option. The hotel is located on the north end of the main island of Malta in Mellieha around bays with large beaches where the terrain is more interesting. Mellieha is close to access Gozo and Comino for the Blue Lagoon and other hotel areas of St. Paul's Bay and Golden Bay, as well as Popeye Village. Rooms are very spacious and high-end with marble floors, walls and bathrooms, a balcony, and other glitzy details. In addition to the spa, the hotel has a restaurant & bar and includes breakfast in the room rate. More information and the ability to book is available here.
What
Do
to...
1) Explore Valletta - The #1 activity most people will do when visiting Malta is explore the Capital City of Valletta. It's the closest main city to Malta's sole airport and to the cruise terminal. It's also the best place to stay for access to the airport, public transportation, the Three Cities, and the best F&B options.
One great way to learn about Valletta & Malta while enjoying traditional Maltese food is to take this Food & Walking Tour of Valletta. It's what I took to get acclimated with the area, learn about Malta's vast history, and get to sample the local food. The tour is led by a local guide with a small group for 3 hours and is great value for the quality of the tour and quantity of the food. More information & the ability to book is available here.
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Aside from the tour, spending downtime in the Upper & Lower Barrakka Gardens is a nice way to unwind. The Upper Barrakka Gardens have a cannon display every day at noon and 4pm from the Saluting Battery and a cafe to grab drinks & snacks. The Lower Barrakka Gardens is a smaller version on the south-end of the island with great views for a sunrise or sunset and also has a cafe.
Malta has no shortage of beautiful churches, but St. John's Co-Cathedral is an ornate work of art. The church built by the Order of the Knights of St. John was completed in 1577 and dedicated to St. John the Baptist. The Knights of St. John is the world’s oldest surviving order known for its military and chivalrous character and ruled Malta from ~1500-1800. Throughout the centuries, every grand master and many knights donated gifts of the best works of art by leading artists of the time. The co-cathedral is open to tour Mon-Sat 9am-4:45pm for 15 euros for adults and for religious service Mon-Fri at 8:30am and on weekends multiple times. Tickets and hours are available here.
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Maybe the most unique place to see in Valletta is St. Catherine's Monastery & Secret Garden now open to the public after being closed for 400 years! St. Catherine’s Monastery was founded in 1575, initially to care for female orphans and served as home for cloistered nuns, who made an oath to lead a life of prayer, contemplation, and service. Tickets cost 8 euros and is open 9:30-4:30pm every day, but Sunday when it closes at 4pm with the last entry 30 min before.
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2) Go to Gozo - Visiting Gozo was the highlight of my trip. It's a mini version of the main island of Malta making it a bit easier to get around to see the diverse sights. I took the Gozo Fast Ferry from Valletta to Gozo's port of Mgarr, which is also where the traditional ferry arrives. The fast ferry only takes 45 minutes from Valletta compared to the hour drive or 90 min bus ride to the far NW end of Malta plus 25 minutes for the traditional ferry. So if leaving from Valletta, it's far more convenient and inexpensive at 7.50 euros each way or 9.50 round-trip, if purchased online in advance. Since the fast ferry is high-speed, it's all indoors and can get very bumpy, at least in the front. So definitely sit in the back and don't expect it to be a relaxing boat ride, just a quick mode of transportation. The fast ferry leaves both Valletta and Gozo Mgarr on the 45 of almost every hour and arrives on the following 30.
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Once on Gozo, there are public buses that depart right from the ferry terminal for the Capital City of Victoria often, as well the double-decker, hop-on, hop-off bus tours. There is also a company right outside the ferry terminal to rent ATVs, scooters, or cars and taxis available for island tours too. Most of the Gozo buses operate round-trip from Victoria every hour, so it's not super efficient to use the public buses, but doable. The sights are spread out across the island most about a 10 min drive or 20 min bus ride from Victoria. If taking the public bus, each destination will take about 2 hours round trip between the 20 min each way and an hour to explore the destination until the next bus arrives.
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The highlights of Gozo for me were:
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The Salt Pans of sea salt collected by 5 generations and available for sale, accessible on the #310 from Victoria (Bay 2) every 45 min starting at 5:30am to Xwejni. There are two families collecting and selling sea salt: Leli Tal-Melh and Natural Xwejni Sea Salt Shop. I bought sea salt from Leli Tal-Melh (also featured for one of the Malta Gifts​) and sea salt oil from Natural Xwejni Sea Salt, which can apparently remove scars. The salt pans overlook the Xwejni Bay, which is a pretty area to enjoy a drink & snack here. It also looked pretty for swimming, but saw lots of dead jellyfish on the beach, which are common in certain Malta bays to be cautious of.
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Bażilika Tal-Madonna Ta' Pinu Mill Gharb is an impressive Roman Catholic basilica & national shrine with Neo-Romantic architecture that's worth seeing in-person. It has beautiful mosaics in front and marble statues across the street as you ascend to the top of the hill for great views overlooking Gozo. The #308 bus stops in front at the Pinu stop and operates every hour on the '55 from Victoria (Bay 3).
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Ta' Ċenċ Cliffs are incredible cliffs accessible via a 10-15 walk from the Cenc stop on the #305 bus operating every hour on the '35 from Victoria (Bay 5).
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There are also the Ggantija Temples, which are a UNESCO World Heritage site as the second oldest free-standing megalithic monuments in the world from the Neolithic era 3600-2500 BC. Second only to Göbekli Tepe in Turkey, predating Stonehenge in England and the Pyramids in Egypt by approximately 1000 years. The temple is built of massive limestone blocks each over five meters long and over 50 tons of weight.
There are a variety of full-day tours with round-trip transportation from Malta via van and private boat to Gozo and then use a jeep, e-jeep, or tuk-tuk to get around the island. They go to the main sights and typically include lunch too. There are also private options for an e-jeep for up to 3 or tuk-tuk up to 6 people.
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3) Take a Boat Ride - There are no shortage of opportunities to take boat rides in Malta. The cheapest and easiest boat ride is on a motorized gondola from the Valletta water taxi station to Birgu, one of the Three Cities across the port from Valletta. It costs 2 euros per person each way and drops you off right in the heart of Birgu. In Birgu, there is a Farmers Market on Tuesday mornings and Flea Market on Sunday morning. I recommend stopping in Home Made in Gozo for great food product souvenirs while there.
The most popular boat ride is to neighboring Comino Island to see the Blue Lagoon (not to be confused with the most famous in Iceland). I recommend visiting the Blue Lagoon from Gozo where there are water taxi and larger boat options, but only when wind conditions are favorable. Otherwise, the boats will have to dock on the other side of the island and it's a long 30 minute rocky walk to the Blue Lagoon, which won't be as picturesque from the waves. There is one public bathroom and multiple food trucks near the Blue Lagoon. There is a place renting chairs for 10 euros each right off the main path that provides a nice place to enjoy the views and relax (pictured above).
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The next most popular boat ride is to the Blue Grotto (not to be confused with the one in Capri). There are small, motorized boats for up to 8 passengers that take a quick 25 minute ride around the Blue Grotto and neighboring caves for 10 euros per person. I recommend avoiding Sunday mornings when cruise & other tours operate with the Marsaxlokk Sunday Market and again only go when wind conditions are favorable, otherwise the boat rides may not operate and will be a rocky ride.
4) Other Highlights - Other highlights of Malta, include Mdina - The Silent City, which was the original capital of Malta. Scenes from Games of Thrones were filmed here and is a nice area to wander around for an hour or two. If having a meal there, check out Trattoria AD 1530 for outdoor dining and The Medina Restaurant for indoor. Fontanella Tea Garden came up on a lot of websites for its cakes, but was way too crowded when I passed by, so was pleased to find Gustav Cafe on the rooftop of the Palazzo Falson for a hidden gem to rest for a drink & snack with great views.
While in the area, I enjoyed walking around The Church of St Dominic for its beautiful cloister (another Game of Thrones scene too) and ornate church and having lunch at Villa Bologna Restaurant and shopping in its pottery store (also featured for one of the Malta Gifts). The Sant Anton Gardens are also nearby Villa Bologna for a quick stroll. The Brewhouse Malta is on the way to stop by before or after for a tour of the Cisk brewery & taproom.
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The fishing village of Marsaxlokk could be nice for a lunch along the marina to see the colorful fishing boats, but recommend not going on Sunday when the weekly market occurs as it is way too crowded and more of a Flea than a Fish Market. There are also boat ride options from there to the nearby St. Peter's Pool.
Popeye Village is another popular attraction I'd say mostly for a photo op and with children. It is on the NW side of Malta and closer to Gozo. It can be combined with a visit to the Golden Bay area for more cliff views and a drink or bite at Singita Miracle Beach (lots of stairs down to reach & then up to exit).
Eat
Pastizzi, which are savory pastries filled with curried peas or ricotta cheese available at pastizzerias. In Gozo, try the island’s traditional dish ftira, which is a flatbread with potatoes, capers, tuna, and anchovies. Also, mqaret, which are date-filled pastries available at local bakeries. Book this Food & Walking Tour of Valletta to sample some of these treats & more.
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In Valletta, I recommend making a reservation at Legligin for an inexpensive & impressive 7 course Maltese & Mediterranean tasting menu available for lunch & dinner. Enjoy pizza or lasagna at San Paolo Naufrago and awesome tapas (the one with mushrooms & truffle aoli is incredible) for a snack at Yard 32 Gin & Tapas Bar.
Drink
Maltese wine, Cisk beer and Maltese liquors made with Prickly Pear and Fennel. Maltese wines are rarely (if ever) exported, so it provides an opportunity to try local wine, not typically accessible elsewhere. Their local Cisk lager beer reminded me of Heineken and available in flavors like with lemon, lime, berry and ginger, and N/A 0.0 too. The Cisk Brewery is open for tours with a tap room in their expansive building available to book here.
There are also Maltese liquors with local flavors not often found like Prickly Pear (used to make spritz) and Fennel, which has an incredibly smooth, surprisingly delightful flavor.
For cocktails in Valletta, I recommend Kamy Cocktail Bar for truly unique cocktails inspired by famous paintings that display the painting on top of the cocktail. Also, Fat City Bar for more amazing cocktails in a cool space and Babel Bistro for a hipster, cool outdoor bar with nightly modern jazz music. *If of legal drinking age to drink responsibly
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The drink highlight of Malta was its national soda called Kinnie, which is made with local bitter oranges and sweetened for an interesting soft drink that can also be used to make a spritz.
Wear
Colorful Cool
Watch
Luzzu by Alex Camilleri for a movie in Maltese with subtitles
Listen
Il Maltija by
Carlos Bonell
Gift
Click here for Gift ideas
Other film options, include: Count of Monte Cristo directed by Kevin Reynolds of which much was filmed in Malta and Popeye by Robert Altman for which the original set can be visited called Popeye Village.