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Kyoto
The City of Ten Thousand Shrines
Japan's capital for over 1,000 years
Why
The Why, When & How to visit...
Once the capital of Japan for over 1,000 years, Kyoto is loaded with history and culture. It's surrounded by beautiful scenery and offers a great variety of activities and sights. It is also easily reachable from Tokyo within 2-3 hours on the shinkansen and centrally located to easily reach Nara, Osaka and Kobe doable for a day trip.
When
How
The closest international airport to Kyoto is Kansai (KIX), but only has direct flights from LA, San Francisco, and Honolulu in the US. Tokyo offers more direct flights to its two international airports - Haneda (HND) and Narita (NRT). Reaching Kyoto Station takes 2.5 hours from Haneda and 3.5 hours from Narita using public transit from the airport followed by the shinkansen high-speed rail.
Spring is a popular time to visit Japan when the famous sakuras (cherry blossom trees) start to bloom at the end of March into early April. However, this is a small window and can be accompanied by rain and overcast skies. Fall is another highlight when Fall Foliage occurs starting mid-October through early December typically peaking in November.
General Tidbits:
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Japanese Yen is the currency, which at the time of writing 1,000 Yen = ~USD$7.50.
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Cash is widely required, including paying for the rail system and most smaller restaurants, bars and shops. We used on average USD$60 of cash / day.
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English is not widely spoken, but was able to get by as needed. Google Translate Lens is helpful to translate words on menus and products.
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The Japan Rail (JR) Pass is a convenient and potentially cost effective way of traveling throughout the country using the rail system. It is sold in 7-day increments and includes unlimited travel on most JR Rails (which is not all rail systems in Japan). Importantly, it does not include the Nozomi express train, which runs more frequently from Tokyo to Kyoto, Osaka, and on to Okayamaha. The Hikari train covering this main route is included, however it takes ~ 30 minutes longer from Tokyo to Kyoto or Osaka, but still operates every ~30 minutes during peak times.
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Train cards called SUICA and Pasmo can be purchased for a 500 yen deposit and loaded with cash to pay for the intercity trains to avoid needing to purchase a train ticket each time. The card can be returned to a train office after the final use to receive the 500 yen deposit back.
Where
to stay...
1) Kiraku Kyoto Aneyakoji - For anyone looking for a private residence for a family, group, or just more space and privacy, this traditional Japanese house is a nice option. The house is 1,561 sf across two floors with 3 bedrooms, dining area, and sweet outdoor Japanese zen garden with a deep soaking tub. The house is centrally located with an open layout and glass floor looking down to the ground level. For more information and the ability to book, click here.
2) Toshiharu Ryokan - For a traditional ryokan experience, this is a good option centrally located near many sights and popular commercial areas. Rooms are spacious with some leading to the Japanese Garden courtyard. Beds are flat mats and the bathroom appears to be shared, which is somewhat common for ryokans. More details on the hotel, along with the ability to book is accessible here.
3) TUNE STAY Kyoto - For an option near Kyoto station, TUNE STAY is your answer. The hotel covers all its bases with rooms ranging from small for solo travelers to grand suites. The highlight is definitely the stadium seating lounge anchored by the wall of shelves containing 2,500 books on Kyoto. There's a projection screen playing short films at night to enjoy with your complimentary sake and bar mix. The hotel also has a craft gin bar offering gin cocktail flights. It also has a laundry room and public kitchen & dining room for longer stays. More details on the hotel and the ability to book is accessible here.
4) Ace Hotel Kyoto - For Ace Hotel fans, you'll be excited to know there's one in Kyoto that opened in June 2020. At the time of writing, it was the only Ace Hotel in Asia and one of only 3 outside the US. Housed in a brick warehouse built in 1926, the company did a nice job of combining the cool, eclectic artsy decor with a Japanese feel. The hotel has ample public spaces with multiple F&B options you'd expect from an American hotel brand, including a Stumptown cafe. They utilized the extra courtyard space for a boutique shopping experience combining both Japanese and NYC based companies, like Le Labo. Rooms have a cool vintage vibe with a record player and simple decor and range in size. For more information and the ability to book, click here.
5) Park Hyatt Kyoto - For a luxurious, very expensive option, head to the Park Hyatt Kyoto located in Gion. The hotel is a zen retreat with wood panels throughout, high ceilings, floor to ceiling windows, Japanese garden, 4 restaurants and spa. Rooms are spacious with a seating area and high-end marble bathroom. More details on the hotel, along with the ability to book is accessible here.
6) The Celestine Kyoto Gion - For a similar, but more modest option, The Celestine has a traditional Japanese feel in Gion at a small fraction of the price. The hotel has a restaurant & bar and public bath. Rooms are simple and a nice size. More details on the hotel and the ability to book is accessible here.
7) Soraniwa Terrace Kyoto - For city views from the rooftop and a spa in the sky only accessible to hotel guests, go to Soraniwa Terrace. The hotel is centrally located with cozy rooms. More details on the hotel and the ability to book is accessible here.
What
to...
Do
1) Visit the Temples & Shrines - Visiting the temples & shrines is an important part and highlight of experiencing Kyoto. The most well-known and impressive temple and shrine to experience in the Kyoto area are the Kiyomizu-dera and Fushimi Inari Taisha, respectively.
Kiyomizu-dera is a Buddhist temple and UNESCO World Heritage site created in 778 and mostly reconstructed in 1633 set across 130 km². The temple offers many places to pray, including the Otowa Waterfall, which provides 3 separate streams that are said to have a different benefit, including longevity, success at school, and a fortunate love life. Drinking from all 3 is considered greedy though. The temple is located near the Gion area on Mount Otowa providing great views of Kyoto. Nearby is another Buddhist temple called Kōdai-ji, which has a tea house with tea ceremonies and bamboo forest. They had a light show while we were there and adds twinkle lights to the bamboo forest creating a magical experience.
Fushimi Inari Taisha is the largest Shinto Shrine in the area. The shrine is dedicated to Inari, the God of Rice and scattered with stone shrines and foxes throughout, who are regarded as messengers. It contains approximately 10,000 orange archways called torii, one right after the next, winding all the way up and down the Inari mountain through forested space. The full round-trip takes about 2 hours and gains about 550 ft of elevation, so while paved with stairs, is a work-out to dress accordingly and bring water and cash for refreshments along the way. Visiting in the early morning is best for cooler temperatures and before it gets crowded. The trail out goes through the town with a few shops and cafes, including a special place to have amazake among the shrines called Amazake Suetomitei and a more commercial, but cool cafe called Vermillion Cafe a bit further down.
2) Explore the Surrounding Sights - In addition to exploring the temples & shrines, Gion, and markets, a popular area to explore west of Central Kyoto is Arishiyama for its Bamboo Grove and Monkey Park. Arishiyama is located along the Katsura River and easily accessible via train from Central Kyoto. The area has a quaint neighborhood feel with lots of nice restaurants and shops.
I recommend visiting the Okochi Sanso Garden for a peaceful walk through beautiful Japanese gardens with an incredible outlook overlooking the forest and river. There's a small admission fee that I thought was well worth it and includes matcha tea at the end. Alternatively, there is a public observation deck that doesn't cover the beautiful grounds, but offers a similar overlook from here. If you cross the bridge and make your way over to the monkey park, it's up a mountain offering nice views, but a trek to reach.
Another area worth visiting from Kyoto is Nara. Nara is about an hour on the train from the Kyoto Station to the Nara Station. From there, the main sights are within walking distance, including the very impressive Tōdai-ji Buddhist temple originally built in the mid-700s with one of Japan's largest bronze Buddha statues. The hundreds of deer in Nara are the other highlight, which roam free and bow for treats.
3) Experience a Tea Ceremony - Getting dressed in a kimono and experiencing a traditional tea ceremony was a highlight of the trip. I chose the Kimono Tea Ceremony, which was very conveniently located near the Nishiki Market and adjacent shopping area. There you're whisked away to be transformed for the ceremony with a beautiful kimono of your choosing and hair styling for women. Time is provided before, during, and after the ceremony to take pictures inside and outside the beautiful Japanese traditional tea house.
The ceremony itself is an hour long in a small group of 12. During the ceremony, the tea master will provide context for the tea ceremony elements before having the opportunity to whisk your own green matcha tea. Sweets are provided to offset the bitterness of the matcha. This experience includes access to the kimono for the day to schedule a reservation at the beginning of the day, if you'd like to wear the kimono beyond the ceremony. For more information and the ability to book, click here.
Eat
Kaiseki, which is a traditional multi-course Japanese dinner typically consisting of an appetizer, sashimi, a simmered dish, a grilled dish, and a steamed course. Kaiseki restaurants are typically located in the historic and picturesque Gion area of Kyoto. Expect to spend at least $75/ person on the low-end, but on average $150+/ person for the food. If you'd like to experience dinner with a geisha, here is one option for a private dining experience. It's also fun to walk through the Nishiki Market and try food along the way.
Drink
Sake, which is a Japanese rice wine made with polished fermented rice. There is a Sake District in Fushimi in southern Kyoto where sake breweries can be toured to learn about the history and making of sake and sample some too. I chose to visit the Gekkeikan Okura Sake Museum within walking distance to the train station. There's also this Sake Tasting Experience in the district that provides an overview of sake with 7 samples and snack pairings.
*If of legal drinking age to drink responsibly
Wear
Understated Elegant
Watch
Memoirs of a Geisha
by Rob Marshall
Listen
"Kyoto"
by Uncolored 1998
Gift
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